Naval Dockyards Society Conference
National Maritime Museum Greenwich 20th April 2013
I am honoured to welcome you to this 500th Anniversary Conference.
I agreed to come because of my own enthusiasm for the heritage at the heart of my constituency of Lewisham Deptford. But I am entirely daunted at the prospect of saying anything about the Royal Dockyards to this audience as I guess every one of you knows more about this subject than I do.
When I was first invited by local Labour party activists to contest the selection to succeed the late John Silkin MP I was a stranger to South East London. My only reference point was Samuel Pepys’ diaries and his oft recorded “went down to Deptford”.
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Excavations at Convoys Wharf
Looking back it wasn’t a bad connection to have made because although my life has been bound up with all the contemporary issues of the past 25 years a small thread has drawn me repeatedly back to the Dockyards.
It was the vicar of St Nicholas Church, Graham Corneck, who first got me interested in the history of the Royal Dockyard. Christopher Marlowe’s bones are reputed to rest in St Nicholas’ churchyard and Graham was an enthusiast for the history of that time. He was also instrumental in involving me in the campaign to get a permanent monument to Peter the Great, now sited on the foreshore at Millennium Quay on the Deptford side of the Creek.
I was also persuaded to buy a large tome on the Great Russian Czar detailing his time in Deptford. His purpose was to learn shipbuilding at the Royal Dockyards but it is as much his raucous behaviour that is recorded by history as his drunken antics wrecked the garden of the great diarist John Evelyn at whose house he was staying.
Deptford has a spectacular history, sadly little appreciated or promoted locally. Understandably it is overshadowed by the magnificent architectural heritage of Greenwich, but it is my great hope that we may in future be able to gain greater recognition for Deptford itself.
I’m not alone in this desire. I’ve already mentioned Graham Corneck. Jess Steele was another local activist with whom I worked on several projects and who wrote ‘Turning the Tide: the History of Everyday Deptford’ published in 1993. Then there’s Chris and William at the Deptford, Master Shipwright’s House from whom you’ll hear this afternoon and who have done such an incredible service to us all in rescuing that amazing property.
But it was the decision of News International to close Convoys Wharf - the last remaining working wharf - that got me enthralled with the history of the Royal Dockyard.
When the site was due for closure the management invited me to a meeting to explain their plans and assure me that the hundred odd workers were all to be redeployed. I was astounded to see the extent of the site – a footprint equivalent to the whole of the South Bank – yet hidden from public view for decades.
My immediate concern was how we, the local people, would regain the site and access to the amazing river frontage. Instinctively I knew that development plans would come forward, based on millionaire’s housing and no respect for the site’s extraordinary heritage. I was right – over the next few years, I, the council and local people pressed our case. The first proposals were scrapped, a new master plan was produced but in the end News International abandoned their task and sold to Hutchinson Whampoa in 2008. They equally struggled to find their way. Eventually I insisted on meeting a senior Chinese executive. We had a very tough meeting in which I likened the importance of the Royal Dock Yards place in British history to that of the Great Wall of China in his. Probably this is the one audience that doesn’t think I exaggerated.
We got a new Master Planner in Terry Farrell, a new approach and again, at my insistence, a different form of community engagement where local people presented their ideas and the developer listened. It took place a year ago and we’ve continued to make progress.
It was the vicar of St Nicholas Church, Graham Corneck, who first got me interested in the history of the Royal Dockyard. Christopher Marlowe’s bones are reputed to rest in St Nicholas’ churchyard and Graham was an enthusiast for the history of that time. He was also instrumental in involving me in the campaign to get a permanent monument to Peter the Great, now sited on the foreshore at Millennium Quay on the Deptford side of the Creek.
I was also persuaded to buy a large tome on the Great Russian Czar detailing his time in Deptford. His purpose was to learn shipbuilding at the Royal Dockyards but it is as much his raucous behaviour that is recorded by history as his drunken antics wrecked the garden of the great diarist John Evelyn at whose house he was staying.
Deptford has a spectacular history, sadly little appreciated or promoted locally. Understandably it is overshadowed by the magnificent architectural heritage of Greenwich, but it is my great hope that we may in future be able to gain greater recognition for Deptford itself.
I’m not alone in this desire. I’ve already mentioned Graham Corneck. Jess Steele was another local activist with whom I worked on several projects and who wrote ‘Turning the Tide: the History of Everyday Deptford’ published in 1993. Then there’s Chris and William at the Deptford, Master Shipwright’s House from whom you’ll hear this afternoon and who have done such an incredible service to us all in rescuing that amazing property.
But it was the decision of News International to close Convoys Wharf - the last remaining working wharf - that got me enthralled with the history of the Royal Dockyard.
When the site was due for closure the management invited me to a meeting to explain their plans and assure me that the hundred odd workers were all to be redeployed. I was astounded to see the extent of the site – a footprint equivalent to the whole of the South Bank – yet hidden from public view for decades.
My immediate concern was how we, the local people, would regain the site and access to the amazing river frontage. Instinctively I knew that development plans would come forward, based on millionaire’s housing and no respect for the site’s extraordinary heritage. I was right – over the next few years, I, the council and local people pressed our case. The first proposals were scrapped, a new master plan was produced but in the end News International abandoned their task and sold to Hutchinson Whampoa in 2008. They equally struggled to find their way. Eventually I insisted on meeting a senior Chinese executive. We had a very tough meeting in which I likened the importance of the Royal Dock Yards place in British history to that of the Great Wall of China in his. Probably this is the one audience that doesn’t think I exaggerated.
We got a new Master Planner in Terry Farrell, a new approach and again, at my insistence, a different form of community engagement where local people presented their ideas and the developer listened. It took place a year ago and we’ve continued to make progress.
.
Olympia Warehouse, Convoys Wharf
Convoy’s Wharf when I first visited it was a concrete wasteland with huge sheds dotted randomly on site. One building stood out – the Olympia Warehouse – with it’s huge ugly façade but superb Victorian vaulted ironwork inside. Fortunately this had been listed and will remain on site but I was appalled to learn that the remains of a Tudor storehouse had been pulled down as late as the 1950s. A full scale archaeological survey has now been undertaken, photographed and documented. I was privileged to make a number of visits as different parts of the site were excavated to reveal the ancient slipways and basin and foundations of buildings – including John Evelyn’s house. They have now been covered to preserve them but I’ve repeatedly asked the developers to look at the ways in which foundations and artefacts can be preserved and sealed but viewed in situ. And the latest plans propose such a viewing of the foundations of part of John Evelyn’s great house, Sayes Court. They also propose restoring the dock walls at the entrance to the basin and keeping the double dry dock as a large open park.
But I’m getting ahead of myself.
My basic demands for the redevelopment of Convoy’s Wharf were complete access to the site for all including the riverfront, a mix of jobs and homes, including affordable homes, recognition and marking of the important heritage and mitigation of the impacts of such a vast development on local roads, transport and services. I knew there would be many objections as there always are but what I didn’t anticipate was the advance of two hugely imaginative projects by local people.
One will be of particular interest to you today. A group of people led by a local boat builder, Julian Kingston, have put forward a plan to build a replica ship.
The project is to build a replica of the Lenox which was the first of the great thirty ship programme of 1677, overseen by Samuel Pepys. The plan is based on the 20 year research programme undertaken by marine historian Richard Endsor which means that it is possible to construct an exact replica. The details of the potential build are fascinating and could employ an army of apprentices. I have never had a particular interest in boats but contemporary paintings record a magnificent war ship that could not fail to inspire.
The second project is one particularly close to my heart as a former botanist. The Sayes Court project is led by landscape gardener Roo Angell and Bob Bagley. They have researched the origins of John Evelyn’s garden established at Sayes Court in 1653. John Evelyn worked on his designs and experimented with plans over a period of 30 years, making his garden one of the most famous and revolutionary gardens of its time. The remains of his manor house and the site of most of his garden now lie within the boundary of Convoys Wharf.
The project aims to create a John Evelyn Centre based on the archaeological remains of the ancient manor house and to plant an extensive garden with trees and medicinal herbs. Once again this site could offer the opportunity to combine natural beauty, scientific research and a place of relaxation for local people
At first these ideas gained little traction with the developers but now talks are underway with both groups and I’m really hopeful that they will go ahead.
For myself it’s been an exciting journey of discovery, enhanced by the many images of great ships from contemporary paintings of the 17th Century to the early photographs of the 19th. I can also trace back an interesting political lineage of sorts. A direct descendent of John Evelyn – William John Evelyn became conservative MP for Deptford in 1885. By then the docks had shifted from shipbuilding to concentrate on victualling and the City of London’s foreign cattle market was flourishing. Established in 1871 it received tens of thousands of sheep and cattle for slaughter on site.
When in 1906 Charles Bowerman became the first Labour MP for Deptford the link with the ship yards still remained. Close to the steps where Drake is thought to have alighted on his return from the New World, were the Royal Victoria Victualling yards. Bowerman frequently asked questions on the conditions of workers in the yards and on numerous aspects of naval contracts.
Developments since then have been less than glorious but we now have a great opportunity to honour the past and reclaim just a little of its magic. We are looking at a decade long development programme during which we will need to be vigilant.
I won’t be the MP by the time it’s completed but I’m intending to stay involved and I very much hope you will too. This is a part of our heritage too important to miss.
But I’m getting ahead of myself.
My basic demands for the redevelopment of Convoy’s Wharf were complete access to the site for all including the riverfront, a mix of jobs and homes, including affordable homes, recognition and marking of the important heritage and mitigation of the impacts of such a vast development on local roads, transport and services. I knew there would be many objections as there always are but what I didn’t anticipate was the advance of two hugely imaginative projects by local people.
One will be of particular interest to you today. A group of people led by a local boat builder, Julian Kingston, have put forward a plan to build a replica ship.
The project is to build a replica of the Lenox which was the first of the great thirty ship programme of 1677, overseen by Samuel Pepys. The plan is based on the 20 year research programme undertaken by marine historian Richard Endsor which means that it is possible to construct an exact replica. The details of the potential build are fascinating and could employ an army of apprentices. I have never had a particular interest in boats but contemporary paintings record a magnificent war ship that could not fail to inspire.
The second project is one particularly close to my heart as a former botanist. The Sayes Court project is led by landscape gardener Roo Angell and Bob Bagley. They have researched the origins of John Evelyn’s garden established at Sayes Court in 1653. John Evelyn worked on his designs and experimented with plans over a period of 30 years, making his garden one of the most famous and revolutionary gardens of its time. The remains of his manor house and the site of most of his garden now lie within the boundary of Convoys Wharf.
The project aims to create a John Evelyn Centre based on the archaeological remains of the ancient manor house and to plant an extensive garden with trees and medicinal herbs. Once again this site could offer the opportunity to combine natural beauty, scientific research and a place of relaxation for local people
At first these ideas gained little traction with the developers but now talks are underway with both groups and I’m really hopeful that they will go ahead.
For myself it’s been an exciting journey of discovery, enhanced by the many images of great ships from contemporary paintings of the 17th Century to the early photographs of the 19th. I can also trace back an interesting political lineage of sorts. A direct descendent of John Evelyn – William John Evelyn became conservative MP for Deptford in 1885. By then the docks had shifted from shipbuilding to concentrate on victualling and the City of London’s foreign cattle market was flourishing. Established in 1871 it received tens of thousands of sheep and cattle for slaughter on site.
When in 1906 Charles Bowerman became the first Labour MP for Deptford the link with the ship yards still remained. Close to the steps where Drake is thought to have alighted on his return from the New World, were the Royal Victoria Victualling yards. Bowerman frequently asked questions on the conditions of workers in the yards and on numerous aspects of naval contracts.
Developments since then have been less than glorious but we now have a great opportunity to honour the past and reclaim just a little of its magic. We are looking at a decade long development programme during which we will need to be vigilant.
I won’t be the MP by the time it’s completed but I’m intending to stay involved and I very much hope you will too. This is a part of our heritage too important to miss.